and she got her groove back...

...and that lonely feeling that followed me around all week has now disappointed, its amazing what time can do. I'm back!

After spending the past few months figuring out how to teach, I think I have finally grasped part of it. I am doing a great project with my classes this month, one that doesn't have me talking for 35 minutes and one that has them interested...it is an amazing concept.

Today I woke up far too early for a Saturday and met one of my students for a little bit of sightseeing. He brought me to a beautiful restaurant that overlooks the ocean in Yesou. I then went ice skating with 9 of my students...madness I tell you madness. The ice skates them selves are totally different from those which I am used to. The boot is a ski boot like apparatus that is not the slightest bit flexible so you leave with cuts in your legs. The blades of the skates have no grooved tip, therefor I had to learn to skate all over again. They cram 200 kids on to a small rink with 5 large polls in the middle. There are children falling all over the place, other children then falling over them. I lasted 10 minutes and then had to remove my self from the madness. I tired to take some pictures but my batteries were dead. Gav later informed me that he had replaced my batteries with his dead ones...thanks love.

Out with Tony tonight and then to dinner with Gav and Trev tomorrow....then its Monday all over again. Id give anything to erase Monday from calender!

I really don't know much of anything at all...

I have spent most of today reflecting on the ever evolving time I have spent here trying to figure out when things change exactly, when it went from being excited to being a new life, to actually living that life. When it went from everything being so new and my time here seeming unending, to beginning to wonder where I will store my stuff, how will I ever get everything home. It is five months away but over the past week I have realized it is haunting me on a day to day basis and now I am determined to find a cure for this anxious feeling that it is giving me.

I think a lot of it has to do with this kind of standstill I am finding myself in this week, the odd feelings that come with returning from any vacation, when you don't know if you can actually return to work, when you don't really want to be around anyone and when you really don't know much of anything at all. I give myself until Monday.

This week has actually been an enlightening one. I have realized that I love editing, I love the complexity of the English language, and although the word Grammar is gross, I love it. I love making proper sentences out of garbled ones and I love taking a simple sentence and making it complex using nothing other than words and punctuation. I know, this is all crazy talk, however, this is why I am coming to realize that I love editing. I looked at one of my students today, who, for the first time wrote a complete sentence (in terms of a six year old who is learning a second language). "Because I was sick I did not go to school." My first reaction, edit edit edit....I was sick today so I did not go to school. I began to let the words "you never begin a sentence with because" escape my mouth and remembered....NO.....it is OK. I am struggling with abandoning all that was drilled into my head growing up regarding sentence structure and word placement, not beginning with and, and certainly, in most cases, never, when listing things, put a comma after or before the and, i.e. I carried my bag, books, pencil, and shoes to school. It makes me cringe, but, I am learning to forget until it matters. Teaching a seven year old how to properly list things when they are struggling with "my name is chaley" and yes his teacher has taught him to spell it that way, just isn't fair.

And so...today I decided a few things: I would love to be a chef- this coming from reading a Time Magazine article on Julia Child's and her fabulous and interesting life. I would love to be an editor- this coming from my love of editing- obviously. My desire to write for a travel magazine- why not combine my two favorite things, writing and traveling. I miss the restaurant industry- I think I long to eat out simply to be in the environment- even though it is so different here. And what did I do with all of these thoughts and desires? Well, I applied for a teaching job in Korea for next year- I can write, freelance for a travel magazine on my holidays, read some good cooking magazines and decide if that is for me, while finding fabulous things and places where ever I am.

Another garbled mess!

And it is back to work

Getting back to town a day early was what we thought would be the perfect fix for our boggled minds. Most of the week was relaxing, however, the last two days in Seoul really sent us spinning.
Friday, Gav, Trevor, Tony and I had a blast stopping off at some new places around town, now that we have a better sense of our surroundings and more confidence in our Korean we feel a little less apprehensive about going outside our box.I met a very kind Korean man with whom I am scheduled to have a date, should be interesting, the extent of his English is "I like Bushie no"- I'm thinking I will skip it.
Saturday night Trev and I ventured out to our favorite spot, The Fish and Grill. A college bar atmosphere with our favorite cheap soju.
Today found me finishing up the pictures from last week, what a feet. Although I love Kodak, it is a pain to try and re-organize everything and now, only 3 days later, I am sick of seeing the pictures. I also spent a good part of the day working on my ever changing resume. When I think of all the resumes I have made directed at the different career paths I have chosen: publishing:editing, writing, publicity; corporate America of any sort with staffing agencies; the restaurant business:serving, managing, events it is unreal. I should start a business, this will be the last one for a while because it is looking like I will be in Korea for another year. There is still plenty of time to decide but it is here or Japan, and the money is better here regardless of how greener the grass is there.
Tomorrow its back to work... I have been dreading it all week but now that it is almost here I am realizing how much I miss my students!

13 cities, 26 hours of traveling and we are home safe

The journey home was the longest possible route between Seoul and Suncheon that two people could possibly ever take. We were going to stay in Seoul for the night and decided on our way back to the hotel that we were ready to get out of the city and that we should head somewhere to digress. What better a place then Boreyoung, home of the mud festival, a place where you can get a full body mud treatment for 30,000won and sit on the beach. We also made a promise to one another, what ever came our way, bumps in the road, long layovers, wrong buses, we wouldn't let it get the best of us and would remain in good spirits.

After 2.5 hours on the bus we got to Boreyoung and realized we just wanted to go home, why not just get a bus to Suncheon. Sorry, you must go to Gunsan for that.

Arriving in Gunsan we met our biggest traveling challenge, ticket vending machines. The man at the door grunted, spit and spewed some information we didn't understand and sent us on a bus to Gwangju- 2 hours. It was also in Gunsan that I ended my trip through the disgusting bathrooms of Korea with the worst of them all. As you walk into the doorless bathroom with a wet sluddgy floor, to your immediate left is a toilet standing alone, in the middle of the room, with no walls or toilet paper is a toilet, small enough for a five year old. Thankfully I noticed that there was one stall in the far end, which was a basin- overflowing. I opted to hold it for this leg of the journey and walked out of the bathroom, camera in hand to show Gavin my findings.

Once in Gwangju we were on our home stretch to Suncheon, one more hour. All in all, a four hour journey turned into a seven and a half hour journey, but we kept our promise.

1.12.07- Suncheon to Pusan...1.13.07- Pusan to Yeongju...
1.13.07- Yeongju to Danyang
1.14.07- Danyang to Guinsa...1.14.07- Guinsa to Yangwol...1.14.07- Yangwol to Taebek
1.14.07- Taebek to Samcheok...1.15.07- Samcheok to Sinnam...1.15.07- Samcheok to Seoul
1.17.07- Seoul to DMZ...1.17.07- Seoul to Boreyong...
1.17.07- Boreyong to Gunsan
1.17.07- Gunsan to Gwangju...1.17.07- Gwangju to Suncheon

I have realized that Korea proudly provided the dirtiest bathroom facilities on the planet. Often times the toilets do not have toilet paper let alone walls.

And so, 2 countries, 13 cities, 26 hours of traveling the buses of Korea, 300,000 won, chicken chicken and more chicken and five motels later we arrived back home safe and sound. I feel like my time here in Korea, whether I experience nothing else for the remainder of the time I am here, has been well spent. I have seen more of this beautiful country then I have of my own.

We went from solitude to bustling cities, from the mountains to the open fields, from a free prospering country to a communist suffering one. I have been enlightened into the lives of the people of Korea, the struggles and the celebrations, the art and the lack there of, the hospitality and friendliness they show and the anger and frustrations they hold inside.

Freedom at a price

Oversleeping a bit, we woke in a bit of a rush to make it to our tour in time. We got dressed in our business casual attire that was wrinkled from being in the bottom of our bags for the entire week and head to the Sofitel ambassador hotel. We were give strict instructions on how to dress and act. No jeans, open toed sandals, drinking, pointing or waving. We would be video taped for most of the trip and so we must be on our best behavior.

This swank hotel was the home of our tour group and the most expensive bakery in the world. For 23,000 won we got 2 coffees, 2 sandwhiches (basic crust less ham and cheese) and a bagel. We boarded our bus and headed for the north.

The tour was made up of about 10 English Speaking people and 30 Japanese tourists and for this reason we had two translators with us. The 50 minute bus ride was split in two parts, the first part being the Japanese translator providing the Japanese with a brief history and some more guidelines and then the English translator doing the same. Our translator, or tour guide, was a Korean man of about 60, who spoke good English and had a wicked sense of humor. It was very cold and cloudy which made it hard to see many things throughout the tour but also gave us a sense of what the cold war is all about...dreariness.

When we arrived at Camp Bonifas, the American supported Army base we had to present our passports to the Korean officer who boarded our bus, we then presented them a second time upon arriving at our briefing to the American soldier who would serve as our escort for the remainder of the trip. We drove past the Daesung dong Freedom Village, the only village in the DMZ. The residents of this village, 250 from 50 different families, are exempt from taxes and from the mandatory two year army enlistment.

Our next stop was at the MAC building, the only place at which you can walk back and forth between North and South Korea. To get to the MAC building you must pass through the Freedom House, a bitterly cold and icy large building that is completely unoccupied. The South Korean soldiers stand with half of their bodies facing the North and the other half behind the wall for sometimes seven hours at a time. They wear dark aviator glasses to hide their eyes and stand on guard at all times. Gav noticed some bare feet footprints on one of the meticulously shined tables and wondered if after all of the tourists leave they have a little bit of fun. There is a door on one end that leads to the South and one on the other end that leads to the North, this door is protected and you are not allowed behind the soldier. You can however, walked around the room and take pictures of this historical meeting place.

Next we stopped at the scene of the Axe Murder. In the 70's there was a tree that obstructed the view of the soldiers on watch, deciding to cut it down, they walked over with an axe and were attacked by seven North Korean soldiers who murdered them with their own axes. This place stands about 500 feet from The Bridge of No Return, getting its name from the exchange of prisoners that took place during the war, once you got to the other side you could never return. Now flags of various countries sit in a circle on the bridge.

We made a brief stop at the gift shop and then to the Freedom Bridge.

Freedom Bridge is situated beside an amusement park lining the last patch of railroad tracks that lead to the last stop in South Korea 20 minutes away from Camp Bonifas. This bridge is where thousands of prisoners returned home at the end of the war, cheering as they walked across the bridge. There are letters and shrines set up for the prisoners who never were able to return home, and there are thousands of people still waiting to be reunited with their families.

As we were walking to the bus an elderly couple got out of a taxi and walked over to the monument for the soldiers who fought in this war. Seeing the sadness in their eyes, knowing that unlike me they had lived through this, that this wasn't only a tourist attraction but it was a way of life, a split country that effects people daily, this was the hardest part of the tour. The human aspect of it all, the look of this couple, who, at their elderly age, come here to pay respects and reflect on their past.

Our tour ended with lunch at a traditional Korean restaurant, which for once, I enjoyed. Bulgogi is a beef dish that they serve to you raw and you then cook at your table, it is served with all sorts of side dishes that I just steer away from. Our kind bus driver brought us straight to the bus station which is inside this "larney" shopping mall that houses a Krispy Kreme with a cue that could take you a good 40 minutes to make it through.

A hangover and shopping

We awoke to being kicked out of our hotel...check out time is apparently noon in Seoul. With a hell of hangover we headed to the Dongdamun area, planning ahead for our big visit to the DMZ. Unfortunately, our cab driver didn't understand and dropped us in a completely different area of Seoul. Another back track and we were finally there. Carrying our bags that got heavier with every lift, we landed in the dirtiest motel we had been in yet. Situated in a back alley, they had mirrors lining the bedside, a cheesy poster circa 1980 and the tub drain simply drained on to the floor. Needless to say, we took a nap, a shower and headed out to the mean streets of Seoul.

I had heard a rumor that they sold Western toiletries in the basement of Doota, this amazingly decorated department store. Indeed they do. After enjoying a sandwich on the ninth floor, Gav picked up some deodorant...something very hard to come by here and we headed to the flea market. North Face fleeces next to dildo's, hammer's next to ties, sewing machines next to cowboy boots, this old soccor stadium had been transformed into a haven of weirdness. Insadong was our next stop, seeking some culture and art.

Walking through the Insadong tube station we saw police officers lining the stairs, Gav thought maybe someone important was coming, why they would be arriving by tube...who knows...but for some reason they were lining the steps. This artsy are feels like Newbury Street, it is cobblestone lined and art galleries and fancy shops stand on each side. We were pleasantly surprised to see an Andy Warhol exhibition, blue umbrellas lined the ceiling creating a surreal sight.

Over dinner at a Irish feeling German pub, Kooster, that of course included chicken, I expressed the utter feeling of disgust that I had with returning to our horrible hotel room. As with most things, Gav felt the same. At times it is as if we share a brain, we think the same and often only need the other to say it making this trip even more enjoyable. Despite my sometimes frustrated hissy fits, they were never that bad, we had a perfect trip, changing course when ever we had the desire and taking our time when needed. And so, we agreed that we decided we needed a nice hotel, something classy with all of the amenities we desired. Motel Mung provided just that. We booked our room and headed back to the slums to gather our things, left the key on the counter and took our 15,000 loss as a wash.

Motel Mung was amazing. As you walked through the car wash like fabric lined garage, they do this so the public cant see who is enteringg as most of these places are rented primarily by the hour, you were greeted by a large door leading into a marble floored golden paradise. The elevator was lined in gold, with a chaise lounge to sit on if you had to take a rest. For a mere 80,000 won our room was spectacular, complete with a glass walled bathroom, sauna, jacuzzi, Internet access and a large plasma that we could project our photos from the Internet on. And so, for the last night of our road trip we lived like a king and queen, we sat and reflected on our week and anticipated our trip to the DMZ the following morning.

losing our souls in seoul

And so...Mr. Bar kindly let us off back at the Moon Motel. We gathered our things and headed to the bus station. Next stop...Seoul.

The four hour bus journey found us traveling through the middle of the country, something we hadn't seen to much of. It is breathtaking, the mountains of Korea jump out at you second after being in the middle of farm country. Cities filled with tall apart buildings stand next to small traditional houses.

We arrived in Seoul eager to find our room and head over to the Seoul Tower and get a glimpse of the Seoul skyline, the Lonely Planet names the Seoul Tower as one of the most breathtaking and romantic spots in Korea.
We wandered through Itaewon, down scary dark alleys seeking a room. To our dismay, Itaewon is a nasty nasty area that I will never stay in again. We settled on the Seoul Motel.

Off to the Seoul Tower. Planning most of this trip with the help of the Lonely Planet we relied on the information provided heavily. It is a challenge to call a site and get an English speaking person, therefor, the hours of operation, location and main attraction are all things which we used to plan our trip and time accordingly. Although for the most part, the Lonely Planet provided us with reliable information, at the Seoul Tower....not so much.

Our taxi brought us up to the gate, had a brief conversation with the guard and passed through. When he let us off we began our climb up the icy road passing visitors coming down the mountain, we were the only people going up. When we got to the top we realized, the Seoul Tower was indeed closed and was not open until 1am as the Lonely Planet had promised. The Namsan Cable Car which we had planned on taking down-closed. The restaurant we ventured into to enjoy the view out of the cold- closed. We took in the amazing view for a moment and scared we would find ourselves stranded for the second time in one day, knowing there would be no Mr. Bar to bail us out this time, we headed back down the icy slop catching the bus just in time.

Starving we ventured out for dinner. Because Koreans are out at all hours of the night it is very easy to lose track of time, you forget that sometimes a restaurant may close their kitchen before midnight because the bustling streets are always filled with bright lights. Unfortunately for us, each restaurant we walked into gave us the same explanation...time is over...no food. Again, chicken. I have never in my life eaten as much chicken as I ate last week, in each city we visited we had chicken, BBQ chicken in Seoul, fried chicken in Yeongju, chicken salad in Suncheon, Chicken Salad in Insadong, Chicken in Samcheok...chicken chicken chicken.

Our next stop was the Seoul Pub. A nice little pub on the main drag, one which, if I was to relocate to Seoul, I would frequent often. The staff was friendly and the decor was interesting, displaying both worldly souvenirs and pictures of foreigners from years past.

A few Long Island Ice Teas later we found our selves engaged in a die game with Junior the owner, "dan dan dan Let's Go" something like that. Needless to say it was a great game, the main purpose, bringing revenue into the bar, the loser buys shots! And of course, I got sick and went to bed, Gav stayed up in to the wee hour of morning snapping these pictures......

A phallic legend on the east coast

Sinnam is 25K south of Samcheok, a small seaside town where squid hangs to dry, meticulously hung from ropes lining the beach. Agima's wander house to house visiting friends, the waves crash along the rocky coast line and the white sand sits without footprints. We ventured there, not knowing if we were going in the right direction and not knowing what we would find.

As we walked along the beach women sitting in front of little grills beckoned you over to try their salt soaked, fresh grilled fish, Gavin, being a more easily persuaded person then I, happily obliged. To me the fish looked like overgrown smelts, but to Gav they were a delicious lunch. For 1,000 won, about .90 cents, three fresh grilled fish...such a deal. It amazes me to see ten of these woman lined along the beach though, each selling the same thing, each eagerly awaiting their next patron. There were not more than 20 people there, how do they survive.

And so the story goes... long ago in the village of Sinnam there was a young girl who would gather seaweed every day. She fell in love with a fisherman one day as she collected seaweed and he promised to return to her, on that rock when she was finished collecting her seaweed. She waited for him on the rock after the sun set, however, because the sea had gotten rough he was unable to make it back to the rock. That night, in the midst of a terrible storm, the young girl drowned waiting on the rock for the love of her life.

From that moment on the fisherman of Sinnam faced horrible catches and a rumor began circulating that it was because of this young girls bitter soul. What way to better cheer up the bitter soul of a woman then to offer her carved wooden phallic's. Miraculously, the fishing improved and now, in this small, dirty, hidden, simple village, "Penis Park" brings tourists from all over the world.

It seemed odd that we would travel 4 hours to see large carved Penis's, however, it was well worth it for the sheer amusement of it all. As you climb a large hill, you see evergreen trees lining the coast, rocks and jetty's to the north and south, surrounding you is of course, phallic sculptures of all shapes and sizes.

There were parents wandering along with the children lagging behind giggling and there were old men unable to hide their amusement. There were wooden carvings that seemed to be totem poles until you took a closer look. There were fiberglass creations and bronze mechanical fountains.Also in side this small park is a fishing museum that shows you the history of the area, telling visitors the story of why this park is here and offering a closer look into the many cultures that celebrate phallic's.

Aside from the amusement the park provided us with, seeing the beautiful coast was breathtaking. For a moment I felt like I was back home, the rocky coast line resembles Rye, the cliffs jetting in and out. In the summer it is probably much different, tourists probably overtake the area and you are unable to gain the sense of tranquility that we were able to. There were but 20 visitors to the park while we were there, silence surrounded us.

The one challenge of the day was the erratic bus schedule in this area. We took a bus the 50 minutes out to this park and never thought to find out when there would be a return trip. Unfortunately, four hours later, we found ourselves standing on the side of the street in a beautiful bus overhang, with not a single bus in sight, no schedule and no sign of a bus coming around the corner. What else is there to do but hitchhike. The people of Korea, after staring at you trying to figure out if you are indeed a human, love to help.

Before we had even decided on actually hitchhiking, my thumb was up in a "come on lets do it" motion and as we looked over a car was pulling in front of us wondering where we were off to. A little hesitant, I looked into the window and said "Samcheok Chusayo". Amazingly, here on the far east coast of Korea there were far more English speaking people then we encountered in any other part of the country. The nice man inside said, "OK" and we jumped in. We rode back to town in Mr. Bar's souped up SUV, at amazing speeds, our 50 minute journey turned into a 15 minute one and we were back at our hotel. Although it may not have been the brightest decision to be hitchhiking in Korea, it beat being stuck in the wilderness all night.

Realizing that we are not 20 anymore and that we require some of the comforts of home, as well as a pillow not filled with straws, we had wandered around Samechok the night before and found a new, hip, clean "motel". This motel has no business being put in the motel category and should instead be considered a "hotel". We spent 40,000 won a night for a hotel that in the states would easily cost $150.00 a night, another reason to love Korea.

Nine cities and a whole country still in front of us. Next stop....Seoul

where we have been....where we are going

Yesterday....

Penis Park in Sinnam. Hitchhiking back...thank you Mr. Bar.A four hour journey to Seoul and drinking far too much with Junior.

Today...2 hotels and a lot of shopping.
Tomorrow...Meet Janna and Gavin the new co-presidents of North Korea- where the beer flows like water and there is always a party!!!!!!!!!

Then it is off to Daechon for some reflection and mud therapy!!!!!

More when I return!!!!

Finding my soul in Guinsa

A 50 minute bus journey later and we found ourselves in Guinsa, the home of the Guinsa Temple, the main temple of the Ch^ont'ae Order of Buddhism. Fifty years ago the temple was founded and today stands under the mantra of "By day plow, at night sit in meditation". Buddhists travel from all over Korea to visit this temple, a place for the common man to obtain complete selflessness, a place to visit set in a valley leading up the side of the mountain.

When we arrived we were delighted to find that even the bus station was built in a traditional manner, looking similar to the Angel houses I had seen when hiking mountains around Korea.
As we approached the large hill I was doubtful that I would enjoy making the trek up, however, one of the joys of Korea is that you can leave your things with anyone and they will be safe. We walked into a building and simply motioned to the large bags on our backs, pointed to a staircase, and with a nod, slid them under without ever giving it a second thought.

As we climbed and climbed, passing elderly woman who were walking ever so slowly, many hunched over from what I assume years in rice fields will do, showing no sign of struggle or dismay with their hike, only solitude and joy with being where they were. Unlike Suncheon or other places we have visited in Korea, there was a large elderly population. In other cities we visited there was no sign of anyone over the age of 50, there seems to be a population with the mean age of 30 in Korea. You don't see anyone with any visible disabilities or sicknesses and there is no sign of an elderly person with a cane or wheel chair. It is odd, where are they? With the absence of nursing homes, do they lock their elders in the basement?

We arrived at the top of the mountain to the sound of praying monks and sat quietly in the back of the room and watched as people came in, prayed, meditated and found emotion in their thoughts and prayers. Surrounded by bright colors, fresh fruits and flowers, large symbols of their religion, a breathtaking building with astonishing beauty.

I found myself with an overwhelming sense of emotion and awe, a feeling of almost disbelief in my surroundings. That this place exists, almost a sort of utopia, and I found myself eager to learn more about Buddhism. I have never had a strong sense of emotion when looking to God or a higher being but was enlightened to see the solitude and devotion the people here felt to theirs. The journey alone pray here is not an easy one, yet, they came, they climbed and they found what they were looking for.

We headed back down the mountain, reclaiming our over sized bags and back to the bus station. The major challenge at each place we stop off at seemed to be the restroom facilities and this was no exception. I have come to draw a picture of a man and woman stick figure to get across the fact that I am looking for a lieu. This time I was directed to cross the parking lot to the temple looking building in the corner. The smell of urine and instantiation greeted me as I walked in, and I immediately noticed that these were not only the basins in the floor that I have come to despise, they were bottomless basins that led down a large black hole, medieval like. In the midst of beauty there is always a stain.

Four hours and we will be out of our solitude and in one of the largest cities in the world, I hope our minds can take it.

Exploring the caves of Korea

A ghost town this time of year, summer brings loads of tourists which I am sure changes the entire feel of the town.We were the only tourists in town it seemed.

We started the morning a deserted coffee shop, the kind you see in movies such as "Jeepers Creepers", when soon enough the main characters find themselves in the midst of outrunning some crazed monster, "jeepers creepers where'd you get those peepers" playing in the background, I had an erie feeling that soon enough we would find ourselves running from the crazy Koreans 50 Meters under the earth as they ran at us screaming "WAYGOOK"! Thankfully, no such thing happened and it was all my dramatic imagination playing games with me.

Gosudongol, a cave filled with Stalactites and over 130 creatures sits nestled in the small town of Danyang.

As I entered the cave, my first cave experience, I realized that despite my years of denial, I have a sense of claustrophobia. Had we visited the cave in the peak of tourist season I don't know if I would have made it through unscathed.

We ventured through the cave which was surprisingly very hot, I was expecting a frigid cold, colder than it was outside, but it was sweltering in parts. Long staircases, which I am happy to say I didn't not fall down once, and amazing rock formations. They have assigned some of these formations clever names such as bacon, love rock and flower. It truly is amazing to see mother natures creations for your own eyes instead of in a text book, it makes you more aware of the power of the land.

We exited the cave and stopped for coffee before venturing through the shopping area outside the cave. The oddest souvenirs line the street, Army Dolls next to silk worms, pieces of the cave next to Scary Movie masks...the randomness of Korea.

We made our way back to the bus station, enjoyed a cup of coffee in a deserted coffee shop and then it was off to Guinsa.

Caving, Buddhism and six hours of travel

Happy Birthday Dad and Lindsey!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Today found us traveling deep into the earth in the most fascinating caves at Gosudonggul...

visiting the private Buddhist sector in Guinsa. One of the most beautiful and enlightening exsperiences I have ever had...

making new friends...

traveling more then 150 miles to seaside town of Samcheok for a wondeful Italian meal...

visiting a dog drug house...

And raking up my bill here at the PC Bang!

We have found another beautiful hotel and are heading back to get some sleep befor our big day tommorow. Penis Park and the closest city to North Korea we feel comfortable visiting with out the guidance of the US government, Sokcho. 10 cities so far! More tommorow....

A little set back but back on track

After a week of early starts Gav was in desperate need of a "lie in"- sleeping-in in my English. I was opposed until we woke up and realized it was 10. The nice woman at Dream Motel ran up the street with us to put us on a bus that was supposed to take us to the "Train Station", however, in our haste we jumped off too soon. We got off and jumped on the tube the rest of the way, 21 stops, to the train station. When we got to the train station we were told, sorry, no train to Danyang, take a bus. Frustrated, we decided to gather our thought and have lunch at Burger King, something I had not seen in Korea until now. I sat in front of the city listings copying down all of the different places we could go...three hours there, four hours here...we would have to change there....lets just take a bus. Back on the tube, 23 stops in the other direction, yes, two from where we started, we got to the bus station, aggravated and ready to get out of Pusan. Frustrated we saw in the distance, bright on the second floor, BK! I am not a fan, however, after eating next to nothing, wandering around in frustration, it was the perfect thing. We realized our best bet was to head to the Express Bus terminal. It was there that I realized that my frustrations with Korea all stem from their bathroom situation.

Public Restrooms, all over the world, are not clean, they are dirty and smelly and require sanitation after using, however, in Korea this takes on new meaning. They are not toilets, they are basins in the floor which do not properly flush. In many restrooms, there is no toilet paper, so on top of having to squat, I now have no toilet paper. However, the kind woman in the Pusan bus terminal, when I asked her or charades her for toilet paper, led me into the hall and pointed to a box where I could purchase toilet paper for 200won. It isn't the fact that I had to pay for it, it was actually similar to a travel size Kleenex package, it was that it was located outside the bathroom, 30 feet into the middle of the main terminal, that there were no signs saying "buy toilet paper outside before you pee." More frustration.

To our surprise there was no direct bus to Danyang. The Korean bus system is amazing. For 30,000 won you can go from the south to north of the country. The buses are clean, they leave and arrive on time, and offer reclining seats and foot rests. Many bus stations offer Internet access and restaurants. Like with all things there are also downsides. Sometimes there are no clerks working behind the counter, only machines from which to purchase your tickets. A challenge to say the least. There are express buses, direct buses, non-stop buses...so many choices. I did figure this out, non-stop is the way to go when traveling outside of major cities, otherwise you stop at all bus stations in between picking up passengers along the way.

So we purchased tickets to Yeongju figuring that if we got there and like the city we could always spend the night there. Arriving in Yeongju the driver left us off on the side of the road and we immediatly knew this was not a place we wanted to be in all night. We purchased our tickets to Danyang where were landed in the quietest city in South Korea.

Danyang, a seaside town surrounded by a large man made lake, most bulidings only 20 years old due to the man induced flooding of the old city back in the 80's. The lakeside road has the feeling of the Hampton strip minus the scantly clothed teenagers perusing up and down the road. Love Motels line the road split up by traditional Korean restaurants.

The main road, or upper road, lined with storefronts selling the latest fashions was deserted at 8pm. At first disappointed, we came to enjoy the solitude we found here. There is something to be said for being the only foreigners around. We saw very few English speaking people in Pusan and have not seen a single "Waygook" since. In Suncheon I found myself frustrated by this and longed for the companionship of someone from the western world. However, now, it is refreshing and reminds me of what my first days here were like, the feeling of hopelessness at times, the feeling that I am, indeed in a foreign land.

Bringing me right back home was the "Rock and Roll Bar". A small bar, again, deserted, along the strip. We tried ordering a Long Island Iced Tea, she didnt understand. A madras, "BODKA", there was a bottle of Absolute in the well, of course it was empty. And o, seeing their extensive beer collection, grabbed a bud light. We sat and talked about the world while listening to great music signed contracts we made like school children and egarly anticipated the rest of our trip.

We were not unlucky again in our search for exiting sleeping accommodations, this time ending up on the other end with a not very clean room in Motel SBS. Most fascinating were our pillows, oddly enough filled with little cut up drinking straws, all yellow and one pink for good luck. Who would think of such a thing, I understand that running a motel may be exspensive, but come on, straws to lay your head on...ridiculous...only in korea!

It was also on our visit to Danyang that we stumbled across our first "Dog Resturant". Although not open, the sign explains it all. Also seen, the first Ford I have seen thus far!